VAN

HO A AM

T H l f C NINH

BINH

y u 5 t i

VU VAN LAU

V A N

H O f l
N I N H

A M

T H I / C

B I N H

NHA XUAT BAN V A N HOA DAN
Hd

Noi

2005

TOC

LCII G i d i T H I E U
au cudn
LJ (nhat

"Huang

Id hoc

hao

hung,

hoc

tap

va cudc

Lau

cho

ra ddi

Binh

".
Noi

that

dugc

vai niem

ton,
cdm

tam,

nghien

tung

y.

Qua
doi
thdi,
- mot

chua
thu

cdm
dam
khong

ban

doc

trudng)

don

nhdn

rat

bo ich

cho

ldn

cudn

sach

nay

"Vdn

cong

tdc

hod

nghien

qua

la tdc

loc

nhan
nghi
the

cua

anh,

thii'u

cong
bai,

noi
vang

Id ndi hit,
dugc

thi

gid dd viet

tung

tdc gid mudn

Vu

thuc

ctiu

say me, vai bao
chat

gid

dm

trinh

nhung

sach

dugc

cdc

song;

hung

gid noi"

gid la cudn

ngdm,

cudn

dieu

sinh
danh

la mot

khiim

dong

phu
tUng

vai chung
chi

Vdn
Ninh

chua
no
sun
cau,

ta

doi

dieu

ve cai su an

uong

de duy

tri

cudc
5

song,

de dam

sit ton
an,

tai

bao

vd phat

me cung
Nhitng

thudng

d day
no

da

hod

trong

noi,

trong

cay ", "udng

ranh

gidi

Thuy
ddt

ngoi

phan

an,

nhu:

nhieu

biet

la huang

chut

( "khong

mudn

gidi

cd

Lai

Bd

a cai
vdn,

vdi nhieu

linh

tudi

cu xUa dd day:

"an

"an

thuc

"cd

lai

da trdi

qua

vUc vd cuang

"co

van

vdi

que

com

v.v...

lai

la cua
ddn

hy",

ciia

ciia

Mac,

tdi

thu nghiem

Huang

bien,

rieng
ddt

la ngudi

vi cong

sdn

ciing

che

co
dac
Ninh

Cd

dd.

cung

cd

cudc
tdc,

ta
Non

chay

Nhung

each

hod "

chung

Yen

ke
la

huang

nem

Trudng,

vi ngudi

nhd

su la dac

Thanh,

nd

qua

", v.v...No

thieu

cd nhung

vi ciia

vdi khau

hod

cua

Phan,

thdng

van

nguon

udng

Co mdn

tam

ngudi

tu".

noi cung

hoc

6

gidng,

sit an udng
len

nhd

nhitng

cd rd Tong

mdn

Dd

ndi

hoi

hudng",

thuc

luon

noi

tuc

rugu

mien

hgp

xa

cdc

nude

Vdn.

Mai,

Binh,

trien

ndng

nhu

phu

mon

de Cd do,

dugc

biet

cung

dong

chi

trong

gid

nay

ciia

dm thuc"

"pham

nhitng

trien

khong

"Van

Tdc

sit phat

chet").

ma

vdi ke

cho

tdi

song
cung

cho

Id minh

linh

vUc van hod,

nay

tdi

vdn

nhung

dieu

nhung

dieu

Lai

hieu

hau

qua

nhitng

thay

trudc

vi nggt

ve cudc

nhung

thay
mai

khi doc

rung

md minh

dd biet

ve van hod

a Ninh

Binh,

gdc

ri
mdn

trang
day

an udng

sach
minh

cua

ciia
chua

no,

thitc,

bien

vdi huang

cho dung

mot

trudng
van

chinh

thodng
each

giao
di,

vien

chua

la mot
viet

ciia

ngudi

gidi

da

dm

thuc.

Lau,
thuc

tdi

lai

het

dugc

chua

nghi

biet

each

che

an udng

dac

vd

ddng

bao,

anh

cd mat
chi

vdn

rdi.

ndi",

tren

cd ldi

viet

thoang

doc

ngay

tudi

hang

phong
cd

the md
vd

chuc

vd dia phuong,
qudc.

cdc

cd

Chd

ten

a

ddm,

ngudi

nhung

toan

di

gid

hid

uang

day

Vu Vdn Lau

sang

nhd

bao

them

nhung

hoac

titng

ta dd biet

tap chi ciia Trung
dugc

sac

a day,

vi cdc mdn

cd sice cudn

dieu

them

thudng

nhuchua

su pham,

"Huang

rieng,

viet

minh.

trong

chid

nhung
bdi

que

cao ddng
gian

ciing

biet

trang

tdi dd

Vdn

thudng

chua

tren

sau

neu

Vu

la

nhdn

ngdm

ngon

Ld

cdm

vd suy

het cdc

ciia

nhat

nhiing

ddng,

den de thudng
sdn

song,

me

la ngudi

thuc

biet

Dieu

anh
nhung

td
cd bdi

nho

bao,
dd
thdi,
l

nhung

khong

giac

chi

dam

nghi

den

de ddt

hieu

biet

sach

khi em
cap

sot,

rat mong
sao

ich ddng

ra thi rong

con

dugc

Dau

hqn

ton

che,

elide

md
vai

chdn

va td't nhien
dugc
theo

de chung

ban

y tdi,

doc
day

ta bo chid

tdc gid
khoang

cdn

nhieu

ciing

co

gop

tu nhdn

trang

dieu

chua

nhung

thieu

y vd the td't

Id mot

Xin

trdn

trong

gidi

Nha viet kich AN VIET DAM

thieu

cudn

ban

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sach

bd

vd

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it thi gid doc

ciing

la

200

ngdm.

8

trong

ma.

Vdn

de

it ngudi

doc!

P h a n
S A C

M A U

Q U E

I
H U O N G

9

I . V A I NET VE DIEU KIEN T U NHIEN, X A HOI V A
CON NGUOI CO LIEN Q U A N DEN V A N HOA A M
THUC C U A NINH BINH
T i n h N i n h B i n h o c u e n a m d o n g b a n g Bac B o ,
n o i t i e p g i a p g i h a Bac B d v d i T r u n g B o , c o d i e n
t i c h tir n h i e n k h o a n g

1.400 k m , p h i a bac
2

giap

t i n h H a N a m ; phia d o n g tay giap t i n h N a m D i n h ,
co d o n g song D a y la dia g i d i t u n h i e n ; phia tay
n a m g i a p t i n h T h a n h H o a , c o d a y n u i da T a m
D i e p c h a y t h e o h u d n g t a y bac - d o n g n a m l a d i a
g i 6 i ; p h i a t a y bac g i a p t i n h H o a B i n h ; p h i a d o n g
n a m g i a p v i n h Bac B o , c o h o n 15 k m b d b i e n .
D i a h i n h c o t h e p h a n c h i a t h e o dac d i e m k h a c
n h a u : p h i a t a y v a t a y bac l a v u n g d o i n i i i ,

co

n h i r n g d a y n u i da v o i an c h h a n h i e u h a n g d o n g
k y t h u . N o i tieng co k h u r h n g n g u y e n sinh quoc
gia Cue P h u o n g thuoc h u y e n N h o Q u a n v d i cay
C h o ngan n a m va D o n g N g u d i X u a c u n g n h i e u
d o n g , thuc vat q u y h i e m khac. D a y c o n la v u n g
dat t r o n g d u o c n h i e u l o a i c a y c o n g n g h i e p n h u :
t h u o c l a , ca p h e , l a c . . . c a y an q u a (dura, c a m ,
q u y t , n h a n , v a i , na, c h u d i . . . ) v a p h a t t r i e n
n u d i ( n h u ; t r a u , b d , I o n , de ( s o n d u o n g ) ,

chan
gia

c a m . . . ) . Phia d d n g va d d n g n a m cua t i n h la v u n g
d o n g bang m a u m o t r d n g n h i e u lua nude va hoa
11

m a u n h u n g o , k h o a i , san, l a c , d 6 . R i e n g

vung

v e n b i e n ( K i m S o n ) h a n g n a m d u o c p h u sa b o i
d a p t i e n ra b i e n t h 8 0 - 1 0 0 m . 6 v u n g n a y n g h e
t r 6 n g lua, t r 6 n g c d i , n u d i t r o n g , d a n h bat

thuy

h a i san r a t p h a t t r i e n . H i e n n a y l a v u n g n u o i t o r n
su x u a t k h a u n h i e u t i e m n a n g v a t r i e n v o n g c u a
tinh.
Ninh

B i n h co n h i e u

song: song Day,

H o a n g L o n g , s o n g V a c rat t h u a n
t u d i t i e u , phat t r i e n

nong nghiep,

song

l o i cho
nuoi

viec
trong

d a n h bat t h u y san. C u n g v d i he t h o n g g i a o t h o n g
d u d n g t h u y n o i d i a t i n h , N i n h B i n h c o q u o c 16
1 A , q u o c 16 10 v a cac d u d n g l i e n t i n h t a o

nen

d i e m g i a o t h o n g q u a n t r o n g de p h a t t r i e n k i n h te
x a h o i , an n i n h , q u d c p h o n g v a g i a o l u u v a n hoa
g i u a ba m i e n B a c - T r u n g - N a m v a m i e n x u d i v d i
mien nguoc.
D o dac d i e m v i t r i , c a u t a o d i a h i n h , N i n h
B i n h vua cd yeu t d co con l u u l a i , vua cd nhieu
y e u t d m d i d a n g h i n h t h a n h , p h a t t r i e n , t a o nen
n h i e u c a n h q u a n k y t h u . K h u v u c n u i d a v d i sat
trung tam thi xa N i n h B i n h duoc x e m nhu " V i n h
Ha L o n g can". Giua t h i xa cd n u i N g o c M y Nhan
( C a n h D i e u ) , n u i T h u y ( N o n N u d e ) c d tac h a n g
t r a m b a i t h o c u a cac d a n h n h a n q u a n h i e u t r i e u
12

dai. Cach

do k h o n g xa (chua

day

10 k m )

thang canh Tam Cdc - B i c h D o n g thuoc

co

huyen

Hoa L u , m o t trong nhung k y quan thien nhien
h i e m c o : " N a m t h i e n de n h i d o n g " , v d i m o t v u n g
son t h u y h u u t i n h . D a c b i e t t r e n dat H o a L u c o
q u a n the d i t i c h l i c h s u v a n h o a D i n h - L e v d i
n h u n g d a u an l i c h s u co g i a t r i q u o c g i a , g a n v d i
3 d d i vua D i n h , L e , L y v d i su h i n h thanh va phat
trien

cua qudc gia phong k i e n dau tien

mang

q u d c d a n h " D a i C o V i e t " . N g o a i r a t r e n dat G i a
V i 6 n - m o t h u y e n v u n g c h i e m t r u n g nhat t i n h cd
thang canh D i c h L o n g , sudi K e n h Ga va k h u du
l i c h V a n L o n g n o i t i e n g . T r e n dat K i m Son c d
N h a t h d da Phat D i e m l a c o n g t r i n h k i e n t r u e doc
dao

su

ket

hop

hai

hoa

giua

kien

true

Tay

p h u o n g va D d n g p h u o n g . . .
V u n g dat N i n h B i n h t h x a x u a da c d n g u d i
V i e t co c u t r u - ket qua n g h i e n c h u khao co v u n g
M a n Bac ( Y e n M d ) da c h o ta b i e t r d h o n d i e u d d .
T i n h d e n 1999 ( t h e o n i e n g i a m t h d n g k e 2 0 0 2
cua Cue T h d n g ke N i n h B i n h ) , dan sd N i n h B i n h
cd 909.038 n g u d i , phan

bd khong

dong

deu.

D d n g nhat la t h i xa N i n h B i n h : 5.397 n g u d i / k m ,
2

sau d d l a h u y e n Y e n M d v a K i m Son c d t r e n 8 0 0
n g u d i / k m . T h u a dan nhat la h u y e n N h o Quan cd
2

13

314 n g u d i / k m . M a t do t r u n g b i n h cua t i n h la
2

657 n g u d i / k m . Cung g i d n g n h u n h i e u v u n g khac
2

d d o n g b a n g Bac B d c u d a n t r o n g t i n h t h u d n g c u
tru theo don v i thdn (lang), xa truyen thdng.
T u y l a t i n h k h o n g l d n ( c d 8 h u y e n t h i , 145 x a ,
phudng, t h i tran) nhung cd n h i e u dan tdc

anh

em. N h i e u nhat la n g u d i K i n h , tren 86 van n g u d i
( t r e n 9 8 % ) - sau d d l a n g u d i M u d n g , n g u d i T a y ,
it nhat la Giay, C o T u , G f c - T r i e n g . . .
V e t o n g i a o : t r o n g t i n h s d n g u d i t h e o d a o Phat
la

37343,

sd

ngudi

theo

dao

Thien

Chua

la

1 3 0 . 9 4 6 , s d n g u d i t h e o cac t o n g i a o k h a c l a 193,
s d n g u d i k h o n g t o n g i a o l a 7 1 4 . 9 6 3 . K i m Son l a
h u y e n c d sd dan theo dao T h i e n C h u a d d n g nhat
la 69.177 n g u d i - ty le h i e n nay la 4 3 % .
N h a n dan N i n h B i n h d u t h e o l u o n g hay theo
giao, d u d m i e n n u i , dong bang hay m i e n bien
nhin chung

deu cd l o n g nhan

ai, cd van

hoa

t r o n g s i n h hoat, Ung xir, c d t i n h t h a n lao d d n g
can c u va sang tao.
N i n h B i n h c d n h i e u le h d i ( n h u le h d i

din

D i n h L e , le h d i den T h a i V i va n h i e u nghe thu
c o n g m y n g h e l a u d d i n o i t i e n g . Tu* c a y c o i c i i a
m i e n v e n b i e n K i m Son, qua b a n tay k h e o leo
cua con n g u d i , c o i da t r d thanh n h i e u mat hang
14

dep,

da

dang,

phong

phu,

tien dung;

khong

n h i i n g phuc v u cho t h i t r u d n g t r o n g nude ma con
l a t h h h a n g h o a d u o c n u d e n g o a i ua c h u d n g .
N g h e k h a i t h a c v a t r a m t r o da c i i a N i n h V a n ,
nghe theu ren d thdn V a n L a m xa N i n h H a i ,
n g h e m d c cua xa N i n h P h o n g (deu cua

huyen

H o a L u ) la n h u n g nghe t r u y e n t h d n g va ngay nay
dang duoc phat h u y m a n h me, m a n g d a m phong
e a c h , t h a m m y d a n t d c , c d sac t h a i r i e n g c u a d i a
p h u o n g , t h e h i e n r d s u c a n m a n t i n h te, g i a u t i n h
n h a n van va k h a nang sang tao cua n g u d i lao
ddng. N g a n h nghe thu cong m y nghe trong nen
k i n h te m d h d m n a y c u a t i n h d a n g h u a h e n n h i e u
t r i e n v o n g , h o a n h i p b u d c c u n g k h u v u c va the'
gidi.
D u da phai t r a i qua n h i e u b i e n c d thang tram,
phai thay d o i ten g o i nhu: T r u d n g Y e n Phu, Chau
Dai Hoang, Thanh Hoa Ngoai Tran rdi Thanh
B i n h d e n N i n h B i n h t h i m a n h dat n g a y n a y v a n
n g a y c a n g t u o i dep, g i a u c d v a n m i n h h o n b d i
n g u d i dan n o i day v d n duoc t h i e n nhien uu dai,
l a i c d be d a y t r u y e n t h d n g l i c h sh v a n h o a va c d
b a n tay, k h d i dc cin

c u , d u n g c a m , d a y sang tao.

V d i n h u n g d i e u k i e n t u n h i e n , xa h d i va con
n g u d i n h u the n h a t d i n h N i n h B i n h se

nhanh
15

chong g i a u m a n h , nhan dan s d m thoat

ngheo,

tien t d i co d d i song vat chat va t i n h than n g a y
cang cao.
II. NHOlMG D A C S A N V A PHONG C A C H A M THUC
CUA NGUOI NINH BINH
1. D a c san v a p h o n g each c h u n g
V i e c an u d n g k h o n g c h i de d u o c n o n e c a i da
day ma con can duoc v u i l o n g , dep mat n g u d i
t r o n g c u d c v a ca n g u d i n g o a i c u d c . C a i l a m n e n
v u i l o n g , d e p m a t a'y p h a i c h a n g l a v a n h o a a m
thuc?
Cau tuc n g u " A n t r o n g n d i , n g o i t r o n g h u d n g "
ay l a n d i v e m o t n e t d e p , m o t k h i a c a n h c u t h e ve
van hoa a m thuc cua d n g cha.
M d i m o t dan tdc, m o t v u n g m i e n cd nen van
h o a k h a c n h a u t h i c u n g d a n d e n s u k h a c n h a u ve
p h o n g each

an u d n g : t h k h a u l u a c h o n

p h a m , c h e b i e n , b a y b i e n 16 n g h i v a e a c h

thuc
tien

h a n h . N g u d i t h e o d a o T h i e n C h u a t r u d c k h i an
g i o tay l a m dau, nhk§u n o i n g u d i V i e t t r u d c k h i
an u d n g c d chao m d i n g u d i cao t u o i va n g u d i
chung quanh. Phai chang day cung la net

dep

rieng rat van hoa t r o n g a m thuc?
N g u d i theo dao T h i e n Chua va nhan dan d
16

t i n h N i n h B i n h c u n g c o p h o n g t u c d o . Cu* d a n
N i n h B i n h 6 cue n a m d 6 n g b a n g Bac B o c h a c
c h a n c o c h i u a n h h u d n g t r u e t i e p v a sau sac

cua

v a n h o a a m t h u c p h u o n g Bac c h o n e n ta k h o n g
t h a y l a m l a n g u d i N i n h B i n h rat t h i c h an p h d H a
N d i , p h d N a m D i n h . T d i d e n , d m o t sd d u d n g
p h d d d n g due t h i xa N i n h B i n h , cd nhieu n g u d i ,
d d n g n h a t l a t h i e u n u n g d i an n g d n u d n g ,

de

l u d c , b u n d c . . . P h a i c h a n g c d net na na c a i t h u
an c h o i b a n t d i c u a n g u d i H a N d i ?
Cung

n h u n g u d i Bac,

nhi6u

ngud^.dS inh

B i n h t h a y k h o n g h o p k h a u v i l a m k l i an p h d Sai
G d n h o a c an m o t s d m d n c d t r a nhipu^iuotJg d t ,
t d i , d u d n g c u a m i e n T r u n g va N a m E d . ^ a l t k lac
n g u d i N i n h B i n h c u n g rat c h i u k h d an p u J r l g

hur

m a n m d i n h u t e p k h d , ca k h d cua m r d n . t r u n g
Tuy

vay, k h o n g

phai

l u c nao

khau

vi

cua

n g u d i N i n h B i n h c u n g c h i u anh h u d n g t h ben
n g o a i m a v a n c d n h u n g net r i e n g ddc dao. C h i n h
cai ddc dao, ddc lap l a m nen ban l i n h vung vang,
p h o n g each s i n h hoat van hoa ciia m d i n g u d i .
T u o n g t r u y e n D i n h T i e n H o a n g la v i H o a n g
de d a u t i e n c u a n u d e D a i C d V i e t c d s d t h i c h an
long

Ion tiet canh.

M d i lan

thang

tran,

dng

t h u d n g c u n g t u d n g si t h u d n g t h i c m d n an rat
2-VHAT

17

q u e n t h u o c d a n d a nay. N e u l a s u t h a t t h i d a y
p h a i c h a n g l a m o t net d e p ve ca t i n h , l a m o t
t r o n g n h u n g b i e u h i e n d u c h i l a c h i tie't n h o ve
a m t h u c c u a m o t H o a n g de x u a t t h a n t u c h u be
chan trau tren dong n o i .
B a n ve v a n h o a a m t h u c c u n g n h u n g u d i ta t a p
b o i g i u a b i e n ca. N o l a l i n h v u c v o c u n g

phong

p h u , da d a n g v a sau r o n g . 6 d a y n g u d i v i e t c h i
x i n ghi lai nhung cam nhan ban dau chu

quan

c u a m i n h ve m o t s d k h i a c a n h t r o n g p h o n g e a c h
a m thuc cua n g u d i N i n h B i n h . T h d n g qua

viec

g i d i t h i e u so l u o c m o t sd m d n an d a n da m a nay
cd the

da t r d t h a n h

N h u n g m d n an dan
thudng

nhat cua

dac

san

da n a y

sd d d n g

cua

dia

la nhung

phuong.
mdn

la n g u d i b i n h

an
dan,

n g u d i lao d d n g o N i n h B i n h .
2. D a c san v a p h o n g e a c h v u n g m i e n
X i n d u o c d i e m q u a v a i n e t v 6 m o t s d m d n an
dac san v a p h o n g e a c h a m t h u c c u a t u n g v u n g
mien.
- Vung

tay

bde

cua N i n h B i n h : day la vung

c h i e m t r u n g va r u n g n u i cua h a i h u y e n cd t h lau
d d i , d d l a G i a V i e n va N h o Q u a n . D a t G i a V i 6 n
c d x a G i a T r u n g sau t r u n g nha't h u y e n c d d d cao
d u d i m a t n u d e b i e n 0,3 m , l a n o i " c h i e m
18

khe,

m u a t h d i " , " s d n g n g a m da, chet n g & m x u o n g " .
C h a n g m a y a i x a u so q u a d d i g i u a m u a l u l u t t h i
p h a i b u d c q u a n t a i t r d i n o i 6 g d c cay, c h d k h i
n u d e c a n m d i c o n o i c h d n cat. V a y n h u n g d a n 6
day rat can m a n , tan tien, t h u d n g ngay an rau
m u o i , b a t de m d c u a , d o m ca r i u t e p k i e m s d n g ,
n u d i c o n an hoc thanh t a i . C d n h i e u n g u d i xuat
c h u n g thanh dat. D i e n h i n h la D i n h T i e n H o a n g ,
Dinh

Dien,

Nguyen

Bac, T r i n h T u , L u u

Co,

T r i n h L d i . V i la ddng c h i e m trung nen d day cd
n h i e u d c n h d i n a y d a t r d t h a n h dac san. C a u ca:
Mudn

an cua roc dc

Dem

nhdi

con ma gd cho ngudi

ddng

chiem

N a y dc n h d i da c d t h e m dia c h i khac d d la nha
h a n g , k h a c h san d n g a y t h a n h p h d l d n , d c n h d i
l e n n g d i dac san. N g o a i dc n h d i , m a m t e p c u n g
n o i tie'ng t h o r n n g o n . N g a y t r u d c n g h e r i u t e p d
day rat phat t r i e n . M a c d u nghe nay vat va l a m ,
p h a i n g a m m i n h d u d i n u d e g i u a m u a ret m u d t
n h u n g c u n g tha'y h a y b d i t h u d n g c d c h o n g d u n
r i u , v o d a i tep ke c u n g t i n h . M a m tep d

day

c h i n h h i e u t e p r i u , d a n h c o n n e n m a m d d a u , vira
thorn,

vua

ngon

ngot

dam

da,

nhieu

noi

ua

chudng.
N g o a i dc n h d i va m a m tep n o i t i e n g G i a V i e n
19

c o n n o i t i e n g m o n ca r o T o n g T r u d n g v a c h a o
hen (co le do ngheo k h o , c h i d u gao n a u

chao

hoa n h u n g b u vao l a i co rudt va nude hen t h i
chao l a i ngot bo gan duoc n h u chao ga).
C o n v u n g n u i r h n g N h o Quan - dan c u thua
thdt, n h i e u dan tdc M u d n g , T a y sinh sdng. d day
c d cac san v a t q u y h i e m c u a r h n g C u e
cd

ruou

can

noi tieng, cd

Phuong,

nude khoang

Cue

Phuong dang duoc cong nghe hien dai k h a i thac.
N g o a i r a o N h o Q u a n c o n c d cac l o a i

mang

ddng va nhieu thit thu rhng quy h i e m .
- Vung

ddng

nam

cua N i n h B i n h la

huyen

K i m Son, m i e n b i e n . D a y la v u n g dat m d i , t r u
p h i i c d n h i e u t h u y , h a i san q u y . N g u d i K i m Son
m a n g dang dap t i n h each cua m i e n b i e n k h a r d .
H o chan chat, khoe m a n h , an c u n g k h o e . N h u n g
thanh nien cudng trang m a n h me, nguc n d go
g h e n h u da t a n g . N g u o c l a i , p h u n u K i m S o n c d
n h i e u c d g a i nude da t r a n g ngan m e m m a i , c d
d d i m a t m o m a n g , sau t h a m h a o h a o g u o n g m a t
dhc me M a r i a va cd g i o n g n d i vang t r o n g n h u
tieng c h u d n g ngan cua nha t h d x u D a o .
K i m S o n c d n h i e u dac san b i e n , t h d n g d u n g l a
c u a , ca b i e n . D a c b i e t m d n c h a r u o i l a m i e n g ,
m d n b u n m o c Q u a n g T h i e n . R u o u K i m S o n rat
20

noi tieng khong chi 6 trong tinh ma con noi tieng
k h a p ba m i e n (Bac, T r u n g , N a m ) . N g o a i ra d day
c o n c o t h d i q u e n an v a d a i k h a c h b a n g m o n g o i .
G o i t o r n , g o i ca, n h a t l a g o i ca n h e c h : ca t u o i ,
l a m sach, danh vay, bo x i r o n g , g o i la sung, la loc
vhng, gom

ca,

giam, rau

thorn, co h u o n g

vi

r i e n g , m a t , b o r a t an t u o n g .
- Vung

nam

N i n h B i n h giap tinh Thanh Hoa,

bao g o m t h i x a Tam D i e p va m o t phan

huyen

Y e n M o . T h i xa Tam D i e p m d i duoc thanh

lap

1 9 8 2 . C o n Y e n M o l a v u n g dat c o . 6 d a y c o d i
c h i M a n Bac c o g i a t r i k h a o co h o c c u a q u d c g i a .
N h a n d a n n o i d a y v d n c d t r u y e n t h d n g c a n c u lao
d d n g va rat h i e u hoc, c d lang van hoa N d n K h e
va lang K h o a Bang C d i T r i thuoc dien n d i tieng
nhat t i n h , v d i n h i l u danh nhan van hoa,

khoa

bang nhu: N i n h D i c h (tien si), N i n h Dat (Hoang
Giap), N g u y d n The (quan cong)...
D a c san n o i t i e n g n o i d a y c d n e m Y e n M a c ,
lac n h a n Y e n N h a n v a b u n m o c N d n K h e ( Y e n
T h ) . R i e n g t h i x a T a m D i e p l a v u n g dat m d i d u o c
k h a i p h a , m d m a n g n h u n g c u n g da c h o n h i e u san
pham cd gia t r i xuat khau n h u dua D d n g Giao,
v a i , n h a n , na d a i c u a cac t r a n g t r a i v a n h a v u d n ,
c d nha m a y d o h o p hoa qua kha h i e n dai.
21

Dac biet d day con liru t r u y e n cau tuc n g h :
Khon
Dai
Me

udng
udng

che

Trai

che Me (thuoc

bao khong

nghe

udng

Nho

Quan)

che Bong

Lang.

N e u ai ve T a m D i e p , ghe Q u a n Chao, den D a u
t h u d n g thuc bat nude che x a n h Ba Trai thudc x a
Q u a n g Son t h i x a T a m D i e p t h a y n g u d i m a t m e ,
thanh thoat, nhe n h d m nhanh c h o n g n h u cd than
duoc. C d le dat d a i d day t h i c h

hop v d i viec

t r o n g che. Che k h d T a m D i e p n g o n nhat t i n h c d
gia t r i xuat k h a u cao.
- Vung

trung

tam

N i n h B i n h la v u n g ddng

bang chau tho, g d m t h i xa N i n h B i n h va m o t
phan huyen H o a L u , c h i each H a N d i c d tren 90
cay sd l a i gan ke v d i C d d d H o a L u , dat T r a n g
A n x u a n e n d a n d v u n g n a y c d n h u n g n e t g i day,
nhat la p h o n g each a m t h u c i t n h i e u d a n g

dap

ngudi thu dd. B d i "dau khong thanh lich, cung
n g u d i T r a n g A n " . T h x u a d d a y d a c d b a i ca ve
m o t le c u d i t u d n g t u o n g m a n h a n dan N i n h B i n h
cung gdp mat.
D o y e u t d d i a l y , l i c h s u x a h d i , v a n h o a tac
d d n g , chac c h d n p h o n g each a m t h u c n o i nay vua
cd y e u t d dan da v u a c d y e u t d t h a n h l i c h . B i e u
h i e n r d nhat la p h o n g each an u d n g , c d ban d xa
22

N i n h T h a n h cu, dien h i n h la t h o n Phuc A m nay
thuoc t r u n g tam t h i xa N i n h B i n h . Trudc day va
b a y g i d so v d i cac n o i , c d b a n d u o c l a m k h a
t u o m tat, t h u d n g c d bat d i a c o , d u a son v d i cac
mdn gid, nem ninh moc kha phong phii, ngon
mieng. A n xong cd trang m i e n g bang banh trai;
m d i m o c c u n g rat can t r o n g , c u n g k i n h .
C o n n g u d i d day cd p h o n g each am thuc rat
da

dang

nhung

net

chung

la kha

khanh

an.

N h u n g h a n g an k e m c h a t l u o n g p h u c v u , t h i e u
tinh van hoa, tham m y thudng thua khach

va

nguoc l a i .
N d i v6 dac san, d d a y k h a p h o n g p h u , n h u n g
n o i bat v a n l a m d n c o m c h a y d d c d a o . N h a h a n g
H u o n g M a i tren dudng Tran H u n g Dao cd hang
t r a m k h a c h d e n an c o m c h a y h a n g n g a y .
D a c san m i e n l u o n c u n g n o i t i e n g k h o n g k e m .
M d i n g a y m d i c h a h a n g ba n g u d i c o n c u a

ba

P h a n c d s d k h a c h d e n an s a n g h a n g t r a m n g u d i .
D a c san t a i de d d a y c u n g r a t t h i n h h a n h . C d
hang true hang ddng khach. Dac biet M a Y e n
Son q u a n d k h u din

D i n h m d i ngay tiep ddn

hang t r a m k h a c h d u l j c h . Chang r d t h bao g i d d
d a y da l u u h a n h c a u ca m a n d i d u n g c u n g r a t
d a n da:
23

Tdi

de chdm

vdi tuong

An vdo mdi thd'y bifng
Ngudi
Ngdy

ai, ngudi

a ddng

gung
bung

mau

de

ve

mai ta lai tdi de, tuong

gitng

D a n d d a y v o n da p h a n l a d o cac h u y e n t h i d i
c u t d i nen ho mang theo n h u n g phong each am
thuc cua dia p h u o n g m i n h v i the t u n h i e n h i n h
thanh su da dang t r o n g v a n hoa a m thuc. N g o a i
r a t h i x a N i n h B i n h c o n r a t n h i e u cac q u a n a m
t h u c m a n g t e n cac t i n h t h a n h k h a c n h u : p h d H u e ,
p h d H a N d i , pho N a m D i n h . Phong each a m thuc
p h a t a p p h o n g p h u d d a y l a m o t t h u c te n h u n g
k h o n g x d b d , v d l d i , c o b a n v a n g i u d u o c c a i net
thanh l i c h cua m o t t h i xa gan C d d d va t h u d d H a
Ndi.
B e n c a n h n h u n g d i n h c a o v e dac san, p h o n g
e a c h an u d n g c u a cac v u n g m i e n t h e h i e n t i n h
van hoa n h u n g cung con k h o n g i t n h u n g hien
t u o n g c h u a v a n h o a - g i d n g n h u t r o n g t h u n g gao
n e p t r a n g t h o r n v a n c o n n h u n g h a t san. 6 m o t s d
x a v e n b i e n c o n t o n t a i h u t u c n h u an c d g i a n h l a i
m o t p h a n de c u n g n h a u c h i a p h a n m a n g v e , c d
n o i n h i n c d de d a t t i e n m u n g . C d n o i c o n p h a n
biet d d i x u , l o a i k h a c h sang

hen, dan dng coi

thudng phu nu, khong ngdi cung m a m v d i phu
24

n u . L a i co n o i c o n c h e m to k h o man k h o n g biet
che b i e n . C o n n h i e u h i e n t u o n g l a n g p h i : t h u c an
de t h i r a m h a , v o t d i v a , c h u c t u n g d o ca xud'ng
d a t . . . c u n g l a m o t b i e u h i e n t h i e u v a n hoa ( t r o n g
k h i n h i e u n g u d i c o n p h a i c h u t r o n h a cua, l u o n g
thuc).
T u y N i n h B i n h co n h i e u dieu k i e n kha thuan
l o i n h u n g v i e c k h a i t h a c s u d u n g phat h u y cua
c o n n g u d i c o n c d n h u n g n a n che, n e n d a y v a n l a
m o t m i e n que n g h e o l a m l u . B i e u h i e n r d n h a t l a
s u a n d c u a d a n c h u n g rat d a m bac, t a n t i e n . H o
t h u d n g x u y 6 n an cac t h h san p h a m t u k i e m d u o c
n h u c u a , dc, ca, tep, r a u t a p t a n g , r a u l a n g , r a u
d i n , r a u c a i . X u a k i a i t k h i n g u d i dan c d t h i t
h o a c cac l o a i r a u q u a cao c a p m a an. B d i k h i d o
cac t h h t h u c p h a m n a y rat dat d o , k h a n h i e m , c h i
c d nha g i a u d thanh p h d m a y ra m d i cd t h u d n g
x u y e n . N h u n g gia d i n h n d n g dan n h i e u k h i nua
n a m m d i c d m o t l a n m u a d u o c m d I o n de d a n h
che b i e n t h h c a n .
T u y vay, b a n g s u c a n c u , sang tao, n g u d i N i n h
B i n h d a b i e t che b i e n n h u n g san p h a m c u a m i n h
d u d a n da, re t i e n n h u n g v a n rat n g o n l a n h v a
k h o n g k e m p h a n s a n g t r o n g . A i d a m bao an ca
k h o , r a u l u d c , c a n h s u d n g l a k h o n g sang t r o n g .
25

T r a i l a i n e u d u o c che b i e n ve s i n h , h i n h t h u c dep,
h a p k h a u v i , c o p h o n g e a c h an d e p t h i v a n l a
n h u n g m o n an k h o n g t h u a k e m dac

san.

V d i y nghia do, 6 day x i n duoc g i d i thieu mot
so m o n a n d a n d a h a y d u n g n h a t t r o n g d a n c h u n g
n h u cac m o n m u d i m a m , m o n k h o , m o n

canh,

dua chua... thudng thay d N i n h B i n h .
*

Ve cac mon mam mudi
N g u d i N i n h B i n h c u n g n h u n h i e u n g u d i dan
khac d d d n g b a n g Bac B d c d quan n i e m " L d i
chao cao h o n m a m c d " nen trudc k h i an t h u d n g
c d l d i c h a o m d i n g u d i c h u n g q u a n h de g i u p h e p
l i c h su. C h o d e n b a y g i d t h d i q u e n n a y v a n c o n
d u y t r i , la net dep v a n hoa trudc t i e n cua

am

thuc. N d i d u n g cua l d i chao l a i cung rat k h i e m
t o n , d £ t h u o n g . C d k h i m d i an c o m c d ca t h i t ,
hoac c d ban r d r a n g m a n g u d i ta v a n n d i rang:
" M d i c o m r a u m a m " . H o a c r u o u K i m Son ro
rang m a bao la: " X i n c u n g chen r u o u nhat"...
T r d l a i m d n an m a m m u d i , v d i n g u d i n d n g
d a n n g h e o x u a d N i n h B i n h l a m d n an c h u c o n g .
V e mudi cung nhieu m d n nhu mudi vung, mudi
lac, m u d i gach cua, t h a m c h i don g i a n c h i mot
26

thia m a m torn t r d n v d i hai thia m u d i la duoc m o n
m u d i m a m t o r n . Cac m o n m u o i n a y n o i c h u n g dt
l a m , de d u o c l a u , re t i e n v i n g u y e n l i e u c h i n h l a
m u o i m a n . C o l e c h i n h dac d i e m n a y m a

nhieu

gia d i n h c u n g to tien bao g i d c u n g co dia m u d i .
T r o n g s d cac l o a i m u d i , c d m u d i v h n g k h o n g
c h i pho bien, t i e n d u n g ma cd h u o n g v i thorn
n g o n rat hap dan, v i m lanh, vha bo m a thanh dam
dac b i e t c d v i t h o r n ha'p d i n . N e u r a n g r d i b d cd'i
g i a t h i h u o n g t h o r n c h a t ca n a m g i a n nha. C h i n h
b d i v a y c h o d e n b a y g i d c d n h i d u m d n an
cap, n h i l u n g u d i v a n c o n t h i c h an m u d i

cao

vhng,

c u n g c d the c o n d o c h u n h a n v a n n h d ve m o t t h d i
ngheo k h o c h i c d " g t m g cay m u d i

man".

G a n g u i v d i cac m d n m u d i l a cac m o n

mam.

D i e n h i n h l a m a m tep, m a m t o r n , m a m cay, m a m
cua,

mam

ca,

dan

tdc

Mudng

con

cd

mam

ngoe... M d n m a m , thanh phan chu yeu la ddng
vat, p h a n n h n § u l a t h u y san, t h u d n g b d t h i n h c h o
l e n m e n de t h d i g i a n t h i c h h o p l a an d u o c . Cac
m d n n a y k h i c h e b i e n p h a i c h u y k h a u ve s i n h ,
n g u d n n u d e s i i d u n g p h a i sach m d i t r a n h d u o c
mam

"uon",

mam

"thdi".

Cac

loai mam

nay

dung duoc dai ngay, cd nhieu chat dam, v i ngot,
thorn. M d n nude m a m duoc c o i la t i n h tuy

cua
27

m o n ca ( v i n g u y e n l i e u c h u y e u l a c a ) . N h i 6 u k h i
c h i co nhat m o n t r o n g m a m c o m , d o l a bat m a m
dung trong nhung ngay m u a g i d k h o n g ra dong.
k i e m t h u c an d u o c .
T r o n g cac m o n m a m d n o n g t h o n N i n h B i n h
t h u d n g x u y e n la m a m tep. D d n g c h i e m t r u n g G i a
V i d n c d rat n h i e u tep. D a n c d n g h e r i u . T h u d n g
thay c h o n g r i u v o d a i tep. C o n g viec t i e n hanh
v a o t h a n g m u d i , m u d i m o t r a t r e t m u d t v a t va,
dam n g u d i trong nude n h u n g ke c u n g rat v u i . M d
tep t u o i n h a y l e n r a o r a o , d u o c b a n t a y k h e o l e o
c u a cac m e , cac c h i ( m a t t a y ) l a m m a m se c h o
nhung

hu mam

vua ngot

vua

thorn. D d i vdi

nhung ngudi ndng dan quanh nam l a m l u mam
tep d d au chan

vao bat

c o m m d i trang

phau

t u d n g k h o n g c d g i d e p b a n g , t h o r n n g o n h a p dan
bang.
M a m t e p d u o c k h o v d i t h i t b a c h i t h i t a an t a m